Is there a more perfect backdrop for a Jacquemus collection than the Mediterranean Sea?
As he prepares to unveil his first beauty line next year, Simon Porte Jacquemus brought back the kind of spectacular destination show that has become synonymous with his brand’s solar aesthetic.
Guests including Isabelle Huppert, Katseye’s Manon Bannerman and South Korean actor Park Seo-joon gathered on the rocky outcrop of Île-Rousse in Corsica for the show on Monday, set against a windswept ocean where a row of sailboats spelled out the letters of his surname.
The coed collection will be available in stores at the same time as his debut fragrance with L’Oréal, set to launch next spring, and Jacquemus wanted the clothes to live up to the moment.
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“It’s a momentous new chapter for us, so with that in mind, I felt this collection absolutely needed to be pure Jacquemus,” he told WWD in a preview. “I also really wanted to get back out into nature.”
After the show, he admitted that organizing the event during a record heatwave proved “stressful.” There were some hiccups, as gusts of wind uprooted a couple of the parasols designed to provide shade for the guests, with one narrowly missing the model who closed the show: Athéna Accorsi, the daughter of Laetitia Casta.
But what will remain etched in collective memory — and Jacquemus lore — is the image of models snaking their way down from the island’s white lighthouse dressed in crisp cotton poplin shirtdresses, gauzy bubble skirts, and rustling taffeta palazzo pants as wide as ballgowns.
“I really wanted to elevate the summer wardrobe,” said the designer, who has expanded his resort activations this year with temporary stores in Forte dei Marmi in Italy and Bodrum, Turkey.
After several seasons of leaning toward more elaborate, couture-inspired designs, he brought back the graphic forms and tangy color palette he’s best known for, grounding many of the looks with variations on tank top shapes, which he offered in materials ranging from sheer organza to papery leather.
Having long struggled with fit issues, Jacquemus delivered his most technically proficient lineup to date, with duster coats that flowed seamlessly from knotted headscarves, scalpel-sharp bustier columns slit up the back, and flowing maxidresses dusted with feathers — all reflecting the skills of his beefed-up in-house workshops.
Men’s looks ranged from fluid wool caftans to summer-friendly tailoring, including sharp barrel-cut organza pants with contrasting cuffs, and filmy nylon suits with jackets tucked into the elasticated waistband of balloon pants.
Among the accessories were tiny straw cone hats and squishy ballet flats in mouthwatering shades, culled from the images of fruit on his mood board. “We wanted them to be like candy, ice cream, or a plate of peaches — something you crave right away,” he said.
Pop star Alizée, known for her cult Y2K hit “Moi…Lolita,” was proud to welcome a fashion show in her home region.
“Corsica has been abuzz for the last few days. Everyone’s talking about it because it shines a global spotlight on our beautiful island. It shows you don’t have to go to the ends of the Earth to find incredible places — all you need is to cross the Mediterranean from France,” she said.
Jacquemus said that while there was no direct tie-in with the packaging of the upcoming beauty line, the collection was designed to feed into a cohesive story.
“This is going to be a moment of incredible visibility for the brand, with campaigns everywhere,” he said. “I always think in 360-degree terms. It’s not just the perspective of a designer creating their latest collection; I’m also a founder thinking about the next steps for the brand.”
Prepare for Jacquemus to own next summer.